Morning Coffee at Hollywood Cemetery

This morning included dropping off my husband at work. Since his office is just down the street from Hollywood Cemetery, I couldn’t resist a detour. With my travel mug of coffee, my yogurt for breakfast, and my journal, I headed down the road, telling myself that I was going to wait out the morning traffic before heading home.

I made my way to one of the overlooks perched above the James River, where the sound of water and the steady hum of cicadas offered a loud, living backdrop. It was one of those perfect early summer mornings, humid but not too hot, buzzing with life, and full of stories waiting to be discovered. There were some fallen limbs and leaves from last night’s storms, and the grass was heavy with morning dew that soaked through my shoes as I walked. I didn't mind, though. 

After journaling, I wandered into some parts of the cemetery that I rarely make time to explore when I'm giving guided tours. There’s something so different about visiting a place without a plan, just letting the place guide your way. 

This morning, they led me to the Crenshaw plot not far from President’s Circle, where I caught a delicate and distinct fragrance on the breeze: the Musk Rose, or Rosa moschata. This particular rose is something special. Once believed to be extinct, the Musk Rose was rediscovered right here in the Crenshaw plot some years ago. Since then, it’s been found in other locations, all tied to the same family. Thanks to the foresight of folks like Connie at Hartwood Roses, cuttings were taken, and the rose now grows in nurseries and gardens, safe from vanishing again. You can read more about its journey on her blog: hartwoodroses.blogspot.com.

This morning, the bush held only two blooms. This rose bush is unique for having two different types of flowers. Apparently, one form is a mutation of the other. It’s a rare and lovely thing to see in person (but mostly to smell!), and even more special knowing its story.

As I was getting ready to head out, I ran into two women walking through the cemetery, sisters with one visiting from Savannah, Georgia. Naturally, the conversation turned to cemeteries. We chatted all things Savannah: Bonaventure Cemetery, the infamous Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, and the meandering paths of Colonial Park that cut through the city. We even touched on Laurel Grove Cemetery, the final resting place of Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts. I love Savannah cemeteries, but you just cannot beat the breeze of the river, which helps keep those pesky gnats away. I bought a mesh head net for the next time I visit Savannah.   

I gave the sisters a quick impromptu tour of Presidents Circle and pointed out John Tyler and James Monroe, the Lloyd family plot (What happened to Frank? If you are familiar with the grave, you know what I'm talking about), and, of course, I had to introduce them to the Musk Rose before parting ways.

There’s something incredibly grounding about mornings like this, feet wet with dew, cicadas singing, unexpected conversations blooming among the graves. History isn’t just in books or plaques; it’s in the plants, the stones, the people you meet, and the stories you pass along.

And sometimes, it starts with a cup of coffee and a slight change in your morning routine. 

For those who couldn't get out to the cemetery this morning, here's a short video of part of my morning stroll.